Officially known as Cathedral de la Santa Creu i Santa Eulalia, La Seu, which sits in the center of Barcelona’s Barri Gotic or Gothic Quarter, is viewed as one of the most outstanding examples of medieval architecture anywhere in Europe.
Over the years, the site has been home to several religious structures. As far back as 343 AD, the site was home to a Roman basilica which was subsequently destroyed by the Moors in 985 AD. After that, a Romanesque cathedral, which was completed in 1058 AD, dominated the site.
Three hundred years later, that cathedral became part of La Seu. Construction started during the rule of King Jaume II, but progress was slow due to various civil wars, epidemics and the numerous other ills that plagued Europe during the period. Building continued into the nineteenth century, which gave the building its façade as seen today. Nevertheless, the final result far surpasses the difficult birth.
At over ninety meters in length with a central spire of seventy meters in height, it is one of the biggest religious structures in Europe. However, its size is the not main source of the building's magnificent style.
The octagonal clock towers, constructed between 1386 and 1393, are just one amongst the many tributes to the architects' genius. The arched entrance is a set of concentric curves set inside one another, giving the structure an appearance that is unusual even among Gothic churches. While the design is used elsewhere, it is rarely done with such care and elegance.
When first entering the impressive interior, the visitor is immediately struck by the remarkable woodcarvings on every wall. A side chapel holds a cross, removed from a galleon that participated in the Battle of Lepanto in 1571. The Christ figure on the cross is bending to the right. Spanish legend has it that the movement was to avoid a cannonball fired during the conflict.
Within the cathedral, there are other chapels with equally fantastic and interesting stories to tell. For instance, the Cappella de Sant Benet behind the altar houses a crucifix from the fifteenth century. Although it is not immediately visible to the casual observer, those that make the effort to seek it out will be justly rewarded.
Underneath the altar is the crypt, which it is alleged holds, the body of St. Eulalia, the thirteen year-old martyr who became the patron saint of Barcelona. Given that the legend says that she was slain in a square during Roman times, by being rolled in a barrel stuck full of knives, it is doubtful that the sarcophagus actually contains much. Differing versions have her being burned at the stake for her Christian beliefs although history tells us that this was not a common practice during Roman times. Nevertheless, as with most legends, the story is often more important than the facts.
In her honor, the courtyard in the cloister next door is always stocked with thirteen white geese that have a small pool to glide across. They occupy a beautiful, quiet patio with lush greenery and an even lovelier fountain. It is one of the few places in the bustling Barri Gotic that is as quiet as a church, as the saying goes.
Before you leave, be sure to visit the roof for a spectacular view of the Gothic Quarter and surrounding Barcelona.